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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small place earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.